Does your tree display one of the signs of root decay -- mushrooms growing from the base or under its canopy? Does the tree show warning signs of structural instability -- cracks in the trunk or major limbs, hollow and decayed areas, or the presence of extensive dead wood?

Consider two ways. Like many service businesses, tree care companies charge hourly and daily rates. Even if an emergency prompts your need for tree care, the best value might be to include a number of other projects you've been wanting to get done -- at the less-expensive (per hour) daily rate. Also, some tree care services offer cost-effective monthly or quarterly maintenance programs. Regularly scheduled tree care sometimes is the better investment.

Properly maintained trees enhance the real estate value of your home or business up to 20 percent! Many successful developers now recognize the value of large trees and have abandoned planting saplings. To increase "curb appeal," they plant three-to-four-inch diameter trees at a labor cost of £75 to £100 each rather than £35 to £50 for a small tree.

Pruning can be done year round, although there are things to consider when deciding when to prune your trees. Your Certified Arborist can discuss your options depending on the tree species and the preferred results.

Professional tree pruning successfully reduces a tree's resistance to wind movement through the crown. Another tip: cabling and bracing individual limbs, or even entire trees, can provide additional structural strength.

Tree roots love to be mulched with a few inches of wood chips or composted leaves. Spread the mulch in an area a few to several feet around the trunk, depending on the size of the tree. If you have grass growing in the area you want to mulch, laying cardboard down first will help to prevent the grass from growing through the mulch. Some types of grass are particularly vigorous and may work their way back to the surface. Removing the grass as soon as possible is critical to controlling the grass.

Mulching is also a great way to conserve water during summer. Apply mulch while the soil is still well saturated with water to prevent it from drying out as rapidly. It is possible for the mulch to prevent overhead watering from reaching the roots during summer if irrigations is infrequent and shallow. That is one reason why we recommend deep, infrequent watering for most trees.

Imagine a wine glass on a plate and you can envision what a typical tree and its root system look like. Most tree roots are in the top 3 feet of soil, spreading out up to three times the height.

For many centuries in Europe, trees were maintained at a certain height with regular pruning.
This practice called pollarding, maintains a tree at a specified height, sometimes for centuries, and provides a formal look
to landscapes. Traditionally, trees have been maintained at 20-30ft tall. Pollarding can be used to keep a large, mature tree small
if it was located in a place with restricted soil space, such as a planter, narrow soil strip, car park or footpath cut out. It is also useful
to control size if a tree has been planted too close to structures such as buildings, street lighting or electric wires.

Once begun it is essential that pollarding continues. Preferably, the pollarding process should begin when a tree is very young.
We would leave one to two inches of stub if necessary to ensure that there will be buds to initiate next years sprouts.
A knuckle of tissue called the pollard head resembling a ball develops several years after the first cut was made.
Most shoots grow from this tissue, which enlarges slightly each year. Most are orientated upright; they do not branch and grow at a
rapid rate. We cut back to this knuckle at each pruning. Shoots originating below a pollard head should be removed each time the tree
is pruned.

A clear distinction should be made between pollarding and topping. Topping can be harmful to trees and can initiate
decay inside a tree. Pollarding is a high maintenance practice requiring repruning every 2 to 5 years, however it can create
unique trees that live for a very long time.

It should be noted that different species of trees respond to pollarding in different waysand pollarding may not be suitable
Willow Trees have approximately 95% survival rate whereas Beech Trees rarely survive
the procedure.

Crown lifting is where the lower branches are cut & thinned out, raising the branch line of the tree either to improve the look of the tree or for health & safety reasons where low branches would be a risk or for vehicle access.

In the U.K. common practice dictates clearance for vehicles is 5.2 metres (~17 feet), & for pedestrians 2.5m (~8 feet).

It can also bring extra sunlight to the area under the tree so to encourage new grass / plant growth.

Lower branches often have to be removed to get them out of the way of traffic, keep them away from a buildings, to make signs
visible that were installed too far off the ground, let in more light, open up a desirable view or create a lower trunk free of branches.
This type of pruning does much less damage to a tree than reducing the canopy size.
It is best done gradually over a period of years.

A trunk could be seriously injured if too many lower branches are removed at any one time. Discolored wood and possible decay
may begin inside the trunk of an over pruned tree. Removing too many lower branches can result in sunburn on the lower trunk
and can cause epicormic growth and forces the tree to grow taller.

Ideally half the foliage should originate from branches on the lower two thirds of the tree. Some major branches should be left
on the lower half of the trunk.

We try to leave small branches on the lower trunk intact for about a year or more if possible after removing large branches
because they help minimize injury from sudden sun exposure by shading the trunk. They also speed closure of pruning wounds.

If many branches need to be removed we would recommend that this be done in two steps. First we thin or drop crotch cut the
largest branches in the lower part of the tree, but leave the small ones intact. This may provide enough clearance for a year or
so because the branch will often spring upward after removing branches from the tips. If necessary we would remove all branches
back to the trunk one or more years later. Sometimes more than one large diameter branch is located at the same point on the
trunk, and both need to be removed to provide clearance. Since removing both at the same time could initiate a fairly large area
of trunk decay and weaken the tree, we would recommend removing one first and shortening or thinning the other. We would return
year or more later to remove some or all of the other branches. The objective is to only remove one large branch in a cluster on the
trunk at a time.

Raising the canopy on trees with large diameter (greater than half the trunk diameter measured directly above the branch) low
branches can initiate trunk decay if these large branches are removed. To prevent this we would recommend thinning them
reducing their length with drop crotch cuts instead of removing them.

This will slow their growth rate, and eventually the trunk will grow to become larger than the branch. This gives the tree an
opportunity to form the branch defense zone at the base of the branch thus minimizing trunk decay once it is removed.
When raising the canopy it may be necessary to attend to any structural pruning that needs to be done to correct defects.
It is inappropriate to simply remove lower branches without correcting structural problems.

It is very difficult to use crown reduction to permanently maintain a tree at a smaller size without causing the tree to decline.
Consider pollarding to reduce and maintain the height if the tree is young. However tree removal and replacement with a smaller
maturing plant may be the choice that minimizes the input of resources.

When a customer wishes to reduce the height, crown reducing is much preferred to topping. Crown reduction should not be used to
reduce the chances of the tree blowing over in a storm. Thinning is the preferred method to minimize storm damage of an otherwise
structurally sound tree. Crown reduction can be considered when the root system of a large maturing tree has substantial decay
making it potentially hazardous or on a tree with a high rating. We would suggest considering pollarding or planting a smaller
maturing tree for the site.

How is crown reduction achieved?
The objective is to make cuts so that the foliage is left intact on the outer edge of the new, smaller canopy ideally, pruning cuts
should not be evident when you stand back from the tree after pruning. Topping, shearing, tipping, and rounding over are not
appropriate techniques for reducing the size of the tree because they compromise the tree’s structure and can cause decay.

We would recommend when removing more than 30% of the foliage, that you consider dividing the job into 2 sessions, around
12 months apart to minimize sprouting and starch removal from the tree.

To reduce the size of a tree with drop-crotch cuts, we shorten the branches that extend beyond surrounding branches.
This maintains the approximate original shape of the tree. The tree is simply made smaller. The longest portion of the main
branches will be cut back to an existing, smaller lateral branch that is large enough to assume the role of the branch.
This is normally 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the removed branch. Excessive sprouting accompanied by die back or decay often occurs
if you cut back to a branch that is too small. It is unreasonable to expect more than about a 15-20 percent reduction in size of
canopy from a properly executed crown reduction. This is a time consuming technique and is more an art than a science.
Our professional arborists are proficient at this technique and can take an ordinary tree and create a unique specimen.
It requires substantial talent to perform this operation; of course this is a temporary measure because the tree will quickly revert
to its natural size.

Trees in a wood provide protection for each other from the damaging effects of wind. Trees in open settings, such as along a street,
in a park or in gardens are open to the effects of wind, especially when they are planted far apart from each other. The canopies
often thicken because light reaches all parts of the tree. A thick canopy catches wind, which under certain circumstances, can
damage the tree by breaking branches or blow it over in a storm. Thinning is a good way to minimize damage caused by storm
winds. It allows the wind to pass through the canopy, making it more durable in a storm.

On occasions the severity of some diseases and pest infestations can be reduced by crown thinning because more light and air
can move through a thinned canopy, this keeps the foliage drier, which discourages diseases. Thinning can also emphasize the
beauty of the trunk and main branches and increase light penetration to the ground, which can enhance plant growth under the
tree to a limited degree.

Thinning is used to reduce limb weight on mature trees in order to compensate for structural defects such as cracks, hollows,
and cavities. Thinning is also used on a young tree to slow growth rate on a vigorous branch.

Proper thinning will not change the overall size of the tree, it will remain the same height and width as it was before thinning.
Proper thinning is done on relatively small branches in the leafy area of the canopy towards the ends of the main branches,
whereas structural pruning is done on larger branches lower on the tree towards the trunk or anywhere it is needed.

Removing foliage at the edge of the canopy allows light to penetrate inside, which encourages the growth of existing small twigs
in the interior of the tree. This helps increase the taper of the main branch by building diameter towards the base of the branches,
thus making the tree stronger. For young trees, we recommend that no more than about 20% of the foliage is removed at any
one time. When thinning mature trees, we recommend no more than about 15% of the live foliage is removed at one time.
Over thinning stresses the tree by removing energy reserves (Starch) and can initiate aggressive, unwanted epicormac growth on
interior branches, creating an odd look.

Over thinning reduces photosynthesis and also forces the thinned branches to elongate, creating substantially weakened branches,
which may break easily in storms. Roots can also be negatively impacted by over thinning. If a tree sprouts vigorously after pruning,
it was probably over pruned.

Removing only interior branches will not reduce the harmful effects of a storm, whereas removing branches with thinning cuts towards
the edge of the canopy will provide protection.

Unfortunately, most other tree surgeons misunderstand thinning and subscribe to the practice of only re-moving branches from the
interior of the canopy. This is often referred to as lion tailing. Little or nothing is removed from the ends of the limbs, and this is a
mistake. This leaves too much weight at the end of the branch and causes limbs to over elongate, possibly resulting in sunburn and
epicormic growth. Branches pruned in this manner become weak and may break, or they may have to be removed later because they
droop too close to the ground.

When trees need to be removed, our expert staff are second to none.Trees can be straight felled where they cut down in the conventional manner we can section fell trees where the space is limited or to minimise danger.

When removing a tree or large shrub to ground level, a small proportion of the trunk or stem remains in the ground.
This is known as the ‘Stump’.
A stump can remain in the ground without causing any harm however if you wish to replant then it is necessary to get rid
of the stump.

There are many reasons why a stump should be removed
When a new building is to be constructed
When a new fence is to be erected
When it is not appealing to leave an old stump in the lawn.


The most efficient way of completing removing a stump is by using the Stump Grinder.
The stump grinding machine we use has a width of 35 inches, which is compatible with most garden gates.
We cannot guarantee that this will go through all gates however we will try our best.

The Stump grinder has a large cutter wheel with a number of teeth; this is placed onto the stump and lowered progressively
until the stump is ground out.
This machine is capable of grinding various sizes of stump and can grind to a depth of 10-12 inches
below ground level. This may leave some of the root system in place
However without the tree in place these will eventually rot away.
There will be a pile of chippings and soil left behind in the hole, to rot away.
If a stump was diseased and threatens the health of other plants then we would advise chippings and soil be removed and replaced.

Underground Services
One of the dangers to stump grinding is the pipes, cables and wires from underground services.
Most services should be buried below the maximum depth of our stump grinder. However there is no legislation determining what the depth should be. Unless we are given a map and plan showing the exact location of underground pipes, wires or cables by the owner or the land agent prior to the grinding.
Arbre Care Tree Services shall be under no liability for any loss or damage caused to the pipes, wires or cables and any consequential loss including but not limited to loss of profit or loss of use resulting from work performed under the contract.

Hedge laying developed as a way of making a stockproof barrier out of readily available material, that is, living woodland plants. Until the invention of wire, hedges were the only practical and cost-effective way for a farmer to enclose his stock in areas where walling stone was not to hand.
Hedge laying involves partially cutting through the living stems near ground level, and bending them over as 'pleachers'. They should lie close, like plates in a rack. Depending on the style of laying, the pleachers are anchored by stakes and binding to form a type of living fence. This 'fence' has several purposes.
It forms an immediate barrier to stock or people.

Depending on the style, it provides protection from browsing animals for the young shoots, which grow up from the base.
It improves the micro-climate by slowing the wind and raising the air humidity, so helping the growth of the young shoots.
Even in the period immediately following laying, hedge laying retains sufficient of the pleachers to maintain some habitat for other organisms, including birds, small mammals and invertebrates.
Some new shoots also sprout along the pleachers, thickening the hedge for the first few years after laying, until most of the pleachers eventually die. By this time the new shoots from the base have grown up to form a thick hedge.

In the past, the hedge laying cycle would have been similar to the coppicing cycle in woodland, although developed in response to a different need, namely that of maintaining the hedgerow as a thick, stockproof barrier. Coppicing keeps woodland trees small and manageable with hand tools, so they can be easily cropped. Laying keeps the trees of the hedgerow small and manageable. As detailed earlier (Chapter 1, section Hedges in History), the importance of hedgerow maintenance and the economic value of the crops produced during the laying cycle are clearly recorded in Medieval documents. Laying every 10 to 20 years not only rejuvenated the hedge, but would have produced a crop of poles, firewood, faggots and kindling.
The years between laying would have provided crops of blackberries, sloes, nuts and other hedgerow fruits. Like coppicing, hedge laying provided a way of managing trees with the hand tool technology available to all.

Laying is not the only way to manage a hedge. Hedges can be managed by coppicing, where the temporary loss of the barrier and shelter of the hedge is not a problem. Coppicing can be used to rejuvenate neglected hedges or as the regular method of hedge management. The rejuvenation effect, of new shoots sprouting from the base, is effectively the same, although new coppice shoots may be more vulnerable to browsing by stock and wild animals. However, most newly laid hedges are fenced against stock where necessary. Some species can also be maintained almost indefinitely by trimming.

Neglect is now the biggest enemy of the hedgerow. Rates of hedgerow destruction reduced during the 1990s, and some hedgerows are protected by law against removal . However, hedges can still be lost through neglect and bad management. Once they have started to thin out and become bare at the base, or comprise little more than an intermittent line of shrubby trees, the end is in sight unless action is taken. This may involve rejuvenating the hedge by laying or coppicing, with or without planting up of gaps. Simply fencing a neglected hedge against grazing and trampling by stock is also a way of allowing a hedgerow to regenerate, although this is unlikely to bring it back into a suitable state for laying.

In deciding how to restore a neglected hedge, consider what is wanted of it in the future. Some hedges need to be maintained as fairly tight, trimmed hedges, to keep them stockproof and to confine them to a certain height and width. In other cases it may be possible to turn a neglected hedge into a shelter belt or woodland corridor. This will take up more land, but will have a much higher wildlife and shelter value, and can be managed for coppice products and timber. A woodland corridor of native broadleaves doesn't need annual trimming or periodic laying, and where fencing is needed against stock, this will cost little more than for a hedge. This approach allows the retention of mature hedgerow shrubs, old pleachers and moribund stumps and stools, all of value for wildlife, but a nuisance in a traditional laid hedge.

Why Plant Trees?
Among the most important conservation and amenity reasons for planting trees and shrubs are:

to improve landscape amenity, or to screen and improve the appearance of buildings;

to diversify wildlife habitats or provide shelter in open areas, or to stabilise easily eroded soils and spoil tips;

to replace hedgerows, farmland and amenity trees which have been lost through felling, disease or old age and were an important part of the local landscape;

to supplement natural regeneration where this is inadequate in felled or derelict woodland;

to produce timber and wood for sale.

Landscape considerations and legal requirements for tree planting
Trees may only be planted with the landowner's permission.

Consider the proximity of buildings and other structures. Trees in close proximity to buildings/structures may cause structural damage either directly (eg boundary walls/paving) or indirectly (tree related subsidence to low rise buildings). NB It is important to note that indirect damage by trees is principally restricted to areas with shrinkable soils.

Consider the architecture of buildings: ie does the tree form and colour complement the surrounding built environment? Seek advice on whether a tree will obscure the buildings/features. Should a tree be planted at all?

Consider the context of the broader landscape. Will the tree/s match the soft or hard landscape features amongst which they are to be planted?

Consider the possible nuisance a tree may cause in a particular situation: eg ultimate size may cause problems with shade, or touch/knock buildings and windows.

Don't plant under overhead services: eg electric cables, phone wires, for as they grow trees may come into conflict with them, as they strike the service cables. Such trees will require constant pruning in order to avert the nuisance.

Don't plant directly over underground services: if there are suspected underground cables don't dig - contact the Tree Officer without delay. Apart from the possible risk of serious harm to the person digging in such areas (ie over electric and gas services), the service itself may be damaged, incurring significant repair costs. In any event subsequent renewal/ maintenance of the service will result in problems for the overlying tree.

Don't obscure any road sight lines or road signs. Trees which block these, for instance at road junctions and bends, can prove hazardous to road users and pedestrians.

Don't obscure street/security lighting. Blocking of light by trees at night can have obvious implications for safety.

We can also provide consultancy services ; tree reports and inspections, tree surveys and safety audits, management schedules and arboricultural advice.

Tree Preservation Orders (TPO’s) are the legal mechanism to protect and preserve trees for public enjoyment, environmental and aesthetic purposes; bushes, shrubs and hedges are not covered. Trees are also protected by legislation covering Conservation Areas and Sites of Special Scientific Interest.

Gardeners need to be aware of the legislation if:

a tree on their land, or on adjacent land, is protected
if they wish to protect trees on their land from threats such vandalism or felling demands by neighbours
if they wish to protect local woodlands or street trees
Information regarding any protected trees on your land can be obtained from the Land Charges Register, held by your Local Authority Planning Department.

Permission to carry out work on a TPO tree needs to be applied for, at least five days in advance, to the Local Authority Planning Department. This includes routine pruning, even of a fruit tree. Assessment by a tree surgeon (see 2 below) may aid the application. It is important to realise that it is the land owner who is responsible for the upkeep and care of the tree, and for any health and safety risks it may pose. Exceptions can be made to the need for permission in case of emergency, but it is better to inform the Council first. Fines can be up to £20,000 for unauthorised interference with a protected tree. Certain exceptions exist for commercial orchards, certain works done by utility companies, and in specific legal situations.

Permission to carry out work on a tree in a Conservation Area must be requested six weeks in advance. If the Council refuses, or if local residents object, an additional TPO could be placed on that tree. If a tree needs to be felled, the Local Authority may insist that a replacement is planted.

If you wish to protect a tree in your area, write to the Planning Authority stating your reasons, and include a map to aid identification. An immediate, temporary, TPO could come into place. The Authority would then inform neighbours and interested parties. Any objections must be received within 28 days. After six months, the temporary TPO could be confirmed and made permanent, or allowed to lapse. Note that TPO’s do not protect trees from felling where a new development has been granted planning permission by the Planning Authority.

Weeding
Grasses and weeds compete with young trees for moisture, nutrients and light. In the first five years after planting effective weed control is an important factor in aiding the establishment of young trees.

If planting in a lawn ensure you leave a circle of diameter 90cm (3ft) free from turf as this can seriously affect establishment and later growth.

Mulching
Mulching is a highly effective method of controlling weeds, conserving moisture and reducing temperature extremes. Suitable mulches include woven polypropylene or proprietary tree mulch mats. Organic mulches include bark mulch, leafmould or well-rotted manure. While clear of weeds apply a mulch 7.5cm (3in) thick over the root area (a minimum of 50-75cm (20-30in) in diameter). Draw the mulch back from the base of the stem to prevent rotting.

Watering
Water thoroughly in dry spells to ensure that the water reaches the full depth of the root system. Watering little and often may do more harm than good by encouraging roots to remain near the surface and discouraging trees from sending out roots into the surrounding soil in search of water.

Feeding
There is no need to apply fertiliser in the first growing season. The roots should be encouraged to grow out into the surrounding soil in search of nutrients and moisture to establish a healthy root system. On infertile soils, feeding the year after planting may be beneficial. Apply a balanced general-purpose feed at manufacturer’s recommended rate in the spring.

Formative pruning
Corrective pruning is best carried out while the tree is still young. This may involve shortening or removing any competing leaders, and removing damaged, dead or diseased wood. Lower laterals on feathered trees may also need removing in stages over the first few years.

Adjusting ties and removing stakes
Inspect tree ties in spring and autumn and adjust ties to prevent constriction of the stem. After two growing seasons the tree should make sufficient root growth to anchor the tree and the stake can be removed

It would be wrong to assume that all trees growing close to buildings are potentially hazardous. Many other factors can be responsible for structural damage and so detailed site assessments by qualified professionals are required to determine the exact cause.

Trees are normally the largest living structure in the vicinity of buildings and can cause significant problems - especially after a long period of dry weather.

Subsidence immediately springs to mind but the physical threat, caused by falling limbs or structural failure of the main trunk, can be significant. If you do have a substantial tree within ‘range’ of a building or public highway it is well worth having it professionally surveyed every few years to assess its overall health and to determine any pruning or felling that may be needed. Ensure that you keep these reports in a safe place, as they may be useful in any negotiations with insurance companies or public bodies.

During prolonged periods of drought, trees can further dry out the soil to the extent that clayey soils will shrink which can result in structural cracking, particularly around windows and doors. However, the removal of a large tree suspected of causing subsidence can result in swelling or soil heave which can be as damaging as subsidence.

Subsidence can be prevented by not planting larger, more vigorous trees such as poplars, oaks and willows near buildings - but be aware that the extent and spread of tree roots is extremely variable and are unlikely to grow in a uniformly radial pattern. A useful guideline is that roots can commonly extend a distance equivalent to two-and-a-half times the height of the tree.

Tree roots are unlikely to directly penetrate sound footings or pipework but can exploit any cracks or faults (perhaps caused by soil shrinkage or heave) thereby compounding the problem as they extend and expand. Root barriers can be used when planting new trees but if these are deemed necessary than it is probably better to select a smaller or less vigorous specimen!

Pollarding may help reduce the potential impact but before taking steps to remove or reduce in size any tree thought to pose a risk, make sure that it is not protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO), which is issued by the Local Planning Authority. Their permission must be obtained before any protected tree is pruned or felled and similar constraints apply in a conservation area.

Finally be circumspect about removing a specimen that is presumed to be causing a problem. Unless there is an imminent danger from structural failure, precipitous action could cause more extensive damage in the future. It is nearly always worth seeking independent advice from a qualified aboriculturalist as well as a building surveyor.

Possible problems and high risk areas
Structural damage
Generally limited to shrinkable clay soils. Trees taking moisture out of these soils exaggerate soil shrinkage. This results in shifting foundations, which cause structural cracking. Conversely removing large trees from clay soils can cause the ground to swell, again leading to structural displacement. Buildings up to four storeys constructed before the 1950s are most at risk, as they frequently have foundations only 50cm (20in) deep.

Drain damage
Roots may block drains, which burst as a result. This can lead to the formation of cavities as the water from the drain flows into the soil. Older drains with poor seals and rigid joints are most susceptible.

Physical damage
Branches can cause damage to roofs and guttering, suckers can disturb paving and stems can rub against walls. Light buildings, such as garages and sheds, are most at risk.

Root spread
Many factors, both of the site and tree, can affect root spread. Roots often extend for a radius wider than the tree height. If unsure always seek professional advice before planting.

Tree legislation
A tree is the property and responsibility of the land owner, who may be liable for any damage caused. Always check with the Local Planning Authority whether a Tree Preservation Order is in place before working on a tree.